Writing about the technical aspects of auto detailing to an auto dealer is very difficult, to say the least. In my experience working with dealers, few, if any, dealership management level personnel are that familiar with, nor really care about, the technical aspects of auto detailing. And that is how it should be for the most part. Your job is not to manage the technical aspects of every department in the dealership.

Even those who believe they know about detailing because they have gotten their “feet wet” in the automobile business working in the detailing department, you have to realize that the technology of paint finishes and interior materials have changed so much in recent years that what you knew “then” is not relevant “now.”

There are a number of things that management should know regarding detailing, whether you do it in-house or have it done by an outside shop.

Paint Technology Has Changed

For example, in the past, paint finishes were either single stage lacquer or enamel put on the car in thickness of six to eight mils, including the primer. Today, clear coat finishes are no more than 4.5 mils thick and that includes a base color coat of less than 1 mil, and a clear coat of 1.5 to two mils (mil = 1/1000th of an inch).

In the past, it was okay to use a wool cutting pad to attack the single stage paint finish. Cutting, swirling and taking mils and mils of paint off the car. But with a polyurethane clear coat of 1.5 mils, you don’t have much to work with. On top of that, today’s clear coats are just like a piece of plastic, and when it is scratched, it is difficult, if not impossible, to get the scratch out.

Consider then, what an aggressive wool pad, not to mention a heavy compound, is doing to a clear coat finis

Yet today, most “experienced, old-time” detailers are using wool pads and heavy compounds on clear coat finishes. And, not just on used cars, but on brand new cars being delivered to the customer.

New-Car Managers: Read this Carefully

To make my point let me give you some personal experiences with the purchase of a new vehicle in my own family.

When I purchased a BMW for my wife one of the selling points was the inclusion of a “high shine polish.” Being a new car, I interpreted this to mean a paint sealant. After all, why would you buff a brand new car? When the car was delivered, it was shiny all right, but covered with buffer swirl marks. It seems that the detailer had done what he always did: buff a cheap wax on the car with a high-speed buffer and wool pad. How long had this been going on at the dealership? Who knows?

Later, both my brother and nephew bought matching 300Z cars. One in Oregon and the other in California. Short version of the story: both were delivered with buffer swirls.

When I purchased a black Ford Explorer, after careful inspection I found buffer swirl marks on the left side of the hood and left fender. It appeared the vehicle had been scratched, and the buffing was done to remove the scratches. But why was the buffing not followed with a swirl remover/polish and finishing pad? The answer, “We do not do that in our detailing department.”

As astute dealers, you can see the point. Who is making the decisions about what is done to your new and used cars in the detailing department? Are you insuring that the detailers who obviously made the decisions in the stories above have the most up to date training and technology, equipment, and are well versed in paint finishes, problems and methods of correction?

Unfortunately, the answer is no in most dealerships. The detailing department is the “dark hole of Calcutta” in the dealership, and no one goes back there other than to complain about the quality of the work, etc.

Paint Finishing Procedures for Detailers and Dealers

The remainder of this article will deal with some very simple, but basic procedures to follow when working on the paint finish of a new or used car. They are procedures that involve the having the correct tools, pads and chemicals and knowing how to use them. There are procedures that your detailers should know before touching a paint finish on a car.

In detailing, or new car get-ready, the paint finish is the most important part of the vehicle because that is what the customer first sees when they look at the vehicle. And, it is one area of the vehicle that can be severely damaged if it is worked on incorrectly and is very expensive to repair.

From a detailer’s point of view, there are really only two kind of paint finishes to be concerned with: single stage finishes and finishes with a clear coat.

For the detailer, it is the final finish that is important to understand because that is what his work involves.

A properly detailed paint finish requires the following:

Identification of the Paint Finish

While most new vehicles on the road have clear coat finishes, and vehicles prior to 1980 will likely have a single stage paint finish, it is still critical to not assume, but check to be sure. A simple test is to put a small amount of polish on a clean cloth and rub it on the finish. If you get color on the cloth, it is a single stage paint finish. No color, but dirt —  it is usually a clear coat. Simple, but effective and accurate.

Identification of the Problem

This is where more skill and analysis comes in. The evaluator must be able to identify problems and what is needed to correct them. Incorrect analysis can cause damage and/or customer dissatisfaction.

Typically, paint finishes can oxidize, discolor, fade, water spot, etch and scratch.

In many cases, with the proper tool, pad, and chemical you can correct these problems. In some instances the problem cannot be corrected, but improved. This is where skill and knowledge comes in.

Choice of the Proper Tool

For today’s paint finishes there are two basic types of tools: high speed rotary buffers and dual-action polishers.

They can be either electric or pneumatic. From my perspective, the pneumatic tools are better because they are lighter and easier to handle, have variable speeds, and allow the user to feather the trigger on edges and ridges to prevent burning.

They also require less maintenance and have a longer life. The only reason most detailers still use electric tools is because that is what they have always done.

Dealers: go look in your service department and body shop and you will find all air tools. But I will bet your detail department is still using electric buffers.

High Speed Rotary Buffer

This tool is utilized for severe paint problems and irregularities.
Used with a pad and chemical, the high speed of the buffer creates friction, which heats the paint finish. The pad and chemical create the abrasion to correct the irregularity.

Obviously, the use of too aggressive a pad and chemical on certain paint finishes can create more problems than what you are attempting to correct. The detailer must understand that you cannot use tools, pads or chemicals that will create more problems than they correct.

Never put a high speed buffer in the hands of a person who cannot, or does not, think.

Dual Action Polisher

Whether to use an electric or pneumatic tool is often misunderstood, and these tools are often misused in the detail industry.

The orbital (dual action motion) is designed to provide a less aggressive action on the paint. It creates some friction, and therefore, can provide some correction on the paint surface in the same way as a rotary buffer.

On certain paint finishes, especially clear coats, used with the proper chemical it will do an excellent job of surface cleaning, shining and protecting the paint finish, and it is the best way to apply wax.

The dual action polisher is functionally misunderstood by most detailers, and therefore, used incorrectly or not used at all. For the dealership, it will save time and reduce labor costs if the detailers are trained in its use.

In my opinion, a dual action polisher should always be used to apply the final coat of wax or sealant.

Choice of Correct Pad

Unlike the early days of detailing when there was only the wool pad, today the detailer has a choice of pads. The choice should not, however, be based on preference, but on the type of paint finish and problem to be corrected.

Wool Cutting Pads

Traditionally used with compound to buff out surface irregularities on single stage paint surfaces. Many detailers use it incorrectly for polishing and waxing. A wool pad will cause swirls, especially on clear coat finishes. Using a wool pad on a clear coat finish is often frowned upon.

Poly/Wool Blend Cutting Pads

Use a  less aggressive pad than a 100 percent wool pad, it will correct imperfections on clear coats and not cause damage.

Foam Cutting Pads

The foam cutting pad is usually a less dense foam that can be used with rubbing compounds on clear coat finishes and single stage paints to correct surface irregularities. The benefit is that the pad will not create swirls if used correctly and will allow a detailer to sometimes skip the polishing step. These are the choice of most knowledgeable detailers today.

Foam Polishing Pads

The foam polishing pad is usually made of a more dense foam and is softer to the touch than the foam cutting pad. Used with the correct chemical this pad will remove swirls and leave a high shine on the finish.

Choice of the Proper Chemical

The choice of chemical is as critical to the paint finish process as the tool and pad.

Basically, these are the types of chemicals used:

                Compounds – for correction

                Swirl Removers – to remove buffing swirls

                One Step – both a cleaner and protectant

                Waxes & Sealants – protectants

Which you use depends upon the paint finish, the irregularity and the paint finishing process the detailer chooses to follow.

Editor's Note: Stay tuned to the Aug. 15 edition of Auto Remarketing for more from Bud Abraham on proper procedures for the detail department.