Trying to educate a dealer about the technical aspects of auto detailing is very difficult.

In my experience working with dealers, few, if any, management level personnel are that familiar with the technical aspects of auto detailing.

While that is possibly how it should be, you need to know more than you do.

Even those who believe they know about detailing because they have gotten their “feet wet” in the business while working in the dealership’s auto detailing department need to realize that the technology of paint finishes and interiors has changed so much in recent years that what you knew then is not relevant now.

There are a number of things that management should know regarding detailing, whether you do it in-house or have it done by an outside shop. This is knowledge that will allow you to obtain the best quality work at the lowest prices with no damage.

21st Century Paint Technology

In the past, paint finishes were either single-stage lacquer or enamel put on the car in a thickness level equivalent to 6 to 8 mils, including the primer. Today, clear coat finishes are no more than 4.5 mils thick, including the “E” coat, primer, a base coat of less than 1 mil, and a clear coat of 1.5 – 2 mils.

In the past, it was acceptable to use a wool-cutting pad on an oxidized single-stage paint finish. Cutting, swirling and taking mils and mils of paint off the car. But with a polyurethane clear coat of 1.5 mils, there is not much paint film. Additionally, today’s clear coats are just like a piece of plastic, and when it is scratched, it is difficult, if not impossible, to get the scratch out. Consider then, what an aggressive wool pad is doing to a clear-coat finish.

Unfortunately, most “experienced” detailers are using wool pads on clear-coat finishes. They are doing this not just on used cars, but also on brand new cars being delivered to the customer.

New Car Managers Read This Carefully

To make my point, let me share with you   some personal experiences regarding the purchase of a new vehicle in my own family.

A few years ago, I purchased a BMW325 convertible for my wife. One of the selling points was the inclusion of a high shine polish. Being a new car, I interpreted this to mean a paint sealant. After all, why would you buff a brand new car? When the car was delivered, it was shiny all right, but covered with buffer swirl marks. It seems that the detailer had buffed a cheap wax on the car with a high-speed buffer and wool pad. How long had this been going on at the dealership? Who knows.

A year or two later, both my brother and nephew bought matching 300ZXs. One was bought in Oregon and the other in California. Short version of the story: both were delivered with buffer swirls.

I also ran into this problem when I purchased a black Ford Explorer, and on careful inspection, I found buffer swirl marks on the left side of the hood and left fender. It appeared the vehicle had been scratched, and the buffing was done to remove the scratches. But why was the buffing not followed with a swirl remover/polish and finishing pad? The dealer answer: “We do not do that in our detailing department.”

My point is, just who is making the decisions about what is done to your new and used cars in the detailing department? Are you ensuring that the detailers who made the decisions in the aforementioned instances have the most up-to-date training and equipment and are well-versed in paint finishes, problems and methods of correction?

Unfortunately, the answer to this question is no! The detailing or cleanup department is the “dark hole of Calcutta” in the dealership, and no one goes back there, save to complain about the quality of the work, etc.

Paint Finishing Procedures for Dealers and Detailers

That said, the remainder of this article will deal with some very simple but basic procedures to follow when working on the paint finish of a new or used car. These are procedures that involve having the correct tools, pads and chemicals and knowing how to use them. These are procedures that your detailers should know before touching a paint finish on a car.

In detailing or getting a new car ready, the paint finish is the most important part of the vehicle because that is what the customer first sees when they look at the vehicle. It is also one area of the vehicle that can be severely damaged if it is worked on incorrectly and very expensive to repair.

From a detailer’s point of view, there are really only two kind of paint finishes to be concerned with: single-stage finishes and finishes with a clear coat.

For the detailer, it is the final finish that is important to understand because that is what his work involves.

To properly detail a paint finish, you need to read the  following:

Identification of the Paint Finish

While most new vehicles on the road have clear coat finishes and vehicles prior to 1980 will likely have a single-stage paint finish, it is still critical to check to be sure.

A simple test is to put a small amount of polish on a clean white cloth and rub it on the finish. If you get color on the cloth, it is a single-stage paint finish. If you see no color but notice some dirt, it is usually a clear coat. It’s a simple but effective and accurate test.

Identification of the Problem

This is where more skill and analysis comes in to play. The evaluator must be able to identify the problems and what is needed to correct them. Incorrect analysis can cause damage and/or customer dissatisfaction.

Typically, paint finishes will oxidize, discolor, fade, water spot, etch and scratch.

In many cases, with the proper tool, pad and chemical, you can correct these problems. And in some instances, the finish can be  improved. This is where skill and knowledge comes in.

Choosing the Proper Tool

For today’s paint finishes, there are two basic types of tools: high-speed rotary buffers and orbital/dual action tools.

They can be either electric or pneumatic. I think the pneumatic are better because they are lighter and easier to handle, have variable speed and allow the user to feather the trigger on edges and ridges to prevent burning. They also require less maintenance and have a longer life. The only reason most detailers still use electric tools is that they cannot afford an air compressor.

Dealers, go look in your service department and body shop, where you use all air tools. Your detail department is still using electric buffers.

High Speed Rotary Buffer

This tool is utilized for severe paint problems and irregularities.
Used with a pad and chemical, the high speed of the buffer creates friction, which heats the paint finish. The pad and chemical create the abrasion to correct the irregularity.

Obviously, the use of too aggressive a pad and chemical on certain paint finishes can create more problems.

Never put a high-speed buffer in the hands of a person who cannot or does not think things through .

Orbital/Dual Action Tool

Whether electric or pneumatic, this tool is often misunderstood and misused in the detail industry.

The orbital is designed to duplicate the motion of hand application and removal. Essentially, it does not create much friction, and therefore, will not correct severe paint surface irregularities in the same way as a rotary buffer.

On certain paint finishes, especially clear coats, used with the proper chemical it will do an excellent job of surface cleaning, shining and protecting the paint finish.

The orbital/dual action tool is functionally misunderstood by many detailers and often used incorrectly or not used at all, butut it can also save time and reduce labor costs.

In my opinion, an orbital/dual action tool should always be used to apply the final coat of wax or sealant.

Choose the Correct Pad

Unlike the early days of detailing when there was only the wool pad, today the detailer has a choice of pads. However, the choice should not be based on preference but on the type of paint finish and problem to be corrected.

Wool Cutting Pads

This is traditionally used with compound to buff out surface irregularities on single-stage paint surfaces. Many detailers use it incorrectly for polishing and waxing. A wool pad will cause swirls, especially on clear coat finishes. It is recommended to never use a wool pad on a clear coat finish.

Poly/Wool Blend Cutting Pads

A relatively new innovation, the poly/wool blend is less aggressive than a 100 percent wool pad, but it is more aggressive than a foam pad, so it can be used on a severely damaged clear coat finishes.

Sheepskin Finishing Pads

This is a 100 percent sheepskin pad that is used with polishes, swirl removers, glazes or waxes to shine and finish the paint surface. These are popular with meticulous detailers, but the high cost makes them unpopular for most. These are generally used to remove swirls and/or polish. They are becoming obsolete with the advent of foam pads.

Synthetic Sheepskin/Polyester Finishing Pads

These are used for the same finishing procedures as the 100 percent sheepskin. However, as a synthetic, the cost is much less, and therefore, a much more often used pad. The polyester can scratch some surfaces, though. This has also become obsolete with the advent of foam pads.

Foam Cutting Pads

The foam cutting pad is usually a more dense foam that can be used with rubbing compounds on clear coat finishes and single-stage paints to correct surface irregularities. The benefit is that the pad will not create swirls if used correctly and will allow a detailer to sometimes skip the polishing step. These are the choice of most knowledgeable detailers today.

Foam Polishing Pads

The foam polishing pad is usually made of less dense foam and is softer to the touch than the foam cutting pad. Used with the correct chemical, this pad will remove swirls and leave a high shine on the finish.

Choice of Proper Chemical

The choice of chemical is as critical in the paint finish process as the tool and pad.

Basically, these are the types of chemicals used:

—Compounds for correction.
—Swirl Removers to remove buffing swirls
—Polishes/Glazes to remove or fill swirls and create shine.
—One Step, both a cleaner and protectant.            
—Waxes & Sealants: protectants.

Which you use depends upon the paint finish,  the irregularity and the paint finishing process the detailer chooses to follow.

The opinions in this article are based on personal experience and research. As always, feel free to call me for any additional information at (800)284-0123 or email buda@detailplus.com.